Register Sign In List a Sale

EstateSales.org

Find Sales
Estate Sales & Auctions Near You
Shop
Online Sales & Auctions
Hire
An Estate Sale Company or Auctioneer

Search EstateSales.org

Find Estate Sales
Shop Online Sales & Auctions
Hire A Company
List A Sale
Cart (0)

Account

Register Sign In

Estate Sales
Colorado
Berthoud

Ms. Museum Estate Services

Follow company

Eclectic World Traveler Collector's Sale -Attention JEWELRY LOVERS & DESIGNERS

Follow sale Following sale

Online bidding closed

Sale Details
235 Online Auction Items

Board Game in nice condition. *** Players represent collectors attempting to gather sets of valuable properties and artifacts ... coins, antiques, miniatures, etc. These sets are worth handsome sums at game's end. Individual pieces of a set are worthless at game's end, but are able to be sold during the course of the game in order to provide a cash-flow. These 'properties' are represented on cards. There are 12 different types of properties, varying from 3 - 6 pieces per set. Naturally, the sets containing six pieces are much more valuable than the sets containing only three pieces as it is much more difficult to complete these larger sets. Each player is dealt six cards and given a starting 'fund' of $2,000. The top 'property' card is revealed and a bidding ensues. The winner pays the bank and takes the card into his hand. The player then has the option of selling 1 - 3 properties to the bank. The idea here is to rid yourself of properties that you do not wish to collect and provide a source of income. There is danger, however. The sales price is determined randomly via the roll of two dice. The price can vary from 25% - 100% of the listed worth of the item. Further, if a '0' is rolled on one of the dice, then the item is NOT sold outright, but rather an auction takes place amongst the players. This can result in a substantially reduced price to the seller, or a higher price, depending upon the demand for the item. Further, it is quite possible that no one desires the item, so the seller must take the item back into his hand. There is also the possibility that the player will earn a $200 bonus if the proper digit is rolled on one of the dice. When a property is sold, it is placed on the appropriate section of the 'board' - 25%, 50%, 75%, or 100% (there really isn't a board, just a card holder that indicates these sections). After a player sells properties, he may surrender one of the special 'buyer' cards and purchase from 1 - 3 cards from one of these markets. The player must pay the indicated price (based on the particular percentage market where the property is located) and take the property into his hand. Again, there is a decision to be made here. Buyer cards are very valuable, as they can be used in a number of fashions: 1) Purchase properties, as described above; 2) Used as a 'wild' card to complete a set; or 3) Valued as $500.00 at the end of the game. So, a player has to weigh the advantages of each of these options and play accordingly. Buyer cards are purchases at auction in conjunction with a property card. When a Buyer card is revealed, another card is then revealed, and both cards are then auctioned together. The auction is a 'sealed' auction, however, so the stakes are often high as these cards carry tremendous advantages. The game continues in this fashion until the property deck expires or a player calls an end to the game. One can only do this, however, if he has a total value (property sets plus cash) in excess of $5,000. Even then, a player should only do this when he feels he has more assets than any of his opponents.

101 / 1791 sold
Board Game in nice condition. *** Players represent collectors attempting to gather sets of valuable properties and artifacts ... coins, antiques, miniatures, etc. These sets are worth handsome sums at game's end. Individual pieces of a set are worthless at game's end, but are able to be sold during the course of the game in order to provide a cash-flow. These 'properties' are represented on cards. There are 12 different types of properties, varying from 3 - 6 pieces per set. Naturally, the sets containing six pieces are much more valuable than the sets containing only three pieces as it is much more difficult to complete these larger sets. Each player is dealt six cards and given a starting 'fund' of $2,000. The top 'property' card is revealed and a bidding ensues. The winner pays the bank and takes the card into his hand. The player then has the option of selling 1 - 3 properties to the bank. The idea here is to rid yourself of properties that you do not wish to collect and provide a source of income. There is danger, however. The sales price is determined randomly via the roll of two dice. The price can vary from 25% - 100% of the listed worth of the item. Further, if a '0' is rolled on one of the dice, then the item is NOT sold outright, but rather an auction takes place amongst the players. This can result in a substantially reduced price to the seller, or a higher price, depending upon the demand for the item. Further, it is quite possible that no one desires the item, so the seller must take the item back into his hand. There is also the possibility that the player will earn a $200 bonus if the proper digit is rolled on one of the dice. When a property is sold, it is placed on the appropriate section of the 'board' - 25%, 50%, 75%, or 100% (there really isn't a board, just a card holder that indicates these sections). After a player sells properties, he may surrender one of the special 'buyer' cards and purchase from 1 - 3 cards from one of these markets. The player must pay the indicated price (based on the particular percentage market where the property is located) and take the property into his hand. Again, there is a decision to be made here. Buyer cards are very valuable, as they can be used in a number of fashions: 1) Purchase properties, as described above; 2) Used as a 'wild' card to complete a set; or 3) Valued as $500.00 at the end of the game. So, a player has to weigh the advantages of each of these options and play accordingly. Buyer cards are purchases at auction in conjunction with a property card. When a Buyer card is revealed, another card is then revealed, and both cards are then auctioned together. The auction is a 'sealed' auction, however, so the stakes are often high as these cards carry tremendous advantages. The game continues in this fashion until the property deck expires or a player calls an end to the game. One can only do this, however, if he has a total value (property sets plus cash) in excess of $5,000. Even then, a player should only do this when he feels he has more assets than any of his opponents.

102 / 1791 sold
Board Game in nice condition. *** Players represent collectors attempting to gather sets of valuable properties and artifacts ... coins, antiques, miniatures, etc. These sets are worth handsome sums at game's end. Individual pieces of a set are worthless at game's end, but are able to be sold during the course of the game in order to provide a cash-flow. These 'properties' are represented on cards. There are 12 different types of properties, varying from 3 - 6 pieces per set. Naturally, the sets containing six pieces are much more valuable than the sets containing only three pieces as it is much more difficult to complete these larger sets. Each player is dealt six cards and given a starting 'fund' of $2,000. The top 'property' card is revealed and a bidding ensues. The winner pays the bank and takes the card into his hand. The player then has the option of selling 1 - 3 properties to the bank. The idea here is to rid yourself of properties that you do not wish to collect and provide a source of income. There is danger, however. The sales price is determined randomly via the roll of two dice. The price can vary from 25% - 100% of the listed worth of the item. Further, if a '0' is rolled on one of the dice, then the item is NOT sold outright, but rather an auction takes place amongst the players. This can result in a substantially reduced price to the seller, or a higher price, depending upon the demand for the item. Further, it is quite possible that no one desires the item, so the seller must take the item back into his hand. There is also the possibility that the player will earn a $200 bonus if the proper digit is rolled on one of the dice. When a property is sold, it is placed on the appropriate section of the 'board' - 25%, 50%, 75%, or 100% (there really isn't a board, just a card holder that indicates these sections). After a player sells properties, he may surrender one of the special 'buyer' cards and purchase from 1 - 3 cards from one of these markets. The player must pay the indicated price (based on the particular percentage market where the property is located) and take the property into his hand. Again, there is a decision to be made here. Buyer cards are very valuable, as they can be used in a number of fashions: 1) Purchase properties, as described above; 2) Used as a 'wild' card to complete a set; or 3) Valued as $500.00 at the end of the game. So, a player has to weigh the advantages of each of these options and play accordingly. Buyer cards are purchases at auction in conjunction with a property card. When a Buyer card is revealed, another card is then revealed, and both cards are then auctioned together. The auction is a 'sealed' auction, however, so the stakes are often high as these cards carry tremendous advantages. The game continues in this fashion until the property deck expires or a player calls an end to the game. One can only do this, however, if he has a total value (property sets plus cash) in excess of $5,000. Even then, a player should only do this when he feels he has more assets than any of his opponents.

103 / 1791 sold
Board Game in nice condition. *** Players represent collectors attempting to gather sets of valuable properties and artifacts ... coins, antiques, miniatures, etc. These sets are worth handsome sums at game's end. Individual pieces of a set are worthless at game's end, but are able to be sold during the course of the game in order to provide a cash-flow. These 'properties' are represented on cards. There are 12 different types of properties, varying from 3 - 6 pieces per set. Naturally, the sets containing six pieces are much more valuable than the sets containing only three pieces as it is much more difficult to complete these larger sets. Each player is dealt six cards and given a starting 'fund' of $2,000. The top 'property' card is revealed and a bidding ensues. The winner pays the bank and takes the card into his hand. The player then has the option of selling 1 - 3 properties to the bank. The idea here is to rid yourself of properties that you do not wish to collect and provide a source of income. There is danger, however. The sales price is determined randomly via the roll of two dice. The price can vary from 25% - 100% of the listed worth of the item. Further, if a '0' is rolled on one of the dice, then the item is NOT sold outright, but rather an auction takes place amongst the players. This can result in a substantially reduced price to the seller, or a higher price, depending upon the demand for the item. Further, it is quite possible that no one desires the item, so the seller must take the item back into his hand. There is also the possibility that the player will earn a $200 bonus if the proper digit is rolled on one of the dice. When a property is sold, it is placed on the appropriate section of the 'board' - 25%, 50%, 75%, or 100% (there really isn't a board, just a card holder that indicates these sections). After a player sells properties, he may surrender one of the special 'buyer' cards and purchase from 1 - 3 cards from one of these markets. The player must pay the indicated price (based on the particular percentage market where the property is located) and take the property into his hand. Again, there is a decision to be made here. Buyer cards are very valuable, as they can be used in a number of fashions: 1) Purchase properties, as described above; 2) Used as a 'wild' card to complete a set; or 3) Valued as $500.00 at the end of the game. So, a player has to weigh the advantages of each of these options and play accordingly. Buyer cards are purchases at auction in conjunction with a property card. When a Buyer card is revealed, another card is then revealed, and both cards are then auctioned together. The auction is a 'sealed' auction, however, so the stakes are often high as these cards carry tremendous advantages. The game continues in this fashion until the property deck expires or a player calls an end to the game. One can only do this, however, if he has a total value (property sets plus cash) in excess of $5,000. Even then, a player should only do this when he feels he has more assets than any of his opponents.

104 / 1791 sold
Board Game in nice condition. *** Players represent collectors attempting to gather sets of valuable properties and artifacts ... coins, antiques, miniatures, etc. These sets are worth handsome sums at game's end. Individual pieces of a set are worthless at game's end, but are able to be sold during the course of the game in order to provide a cash-flow. These 'properties' are represented on cards. There are 12 different types of properties, varying from 3 - 6 pieces per set. Naturally, the sets containing six pieces are much more valuable than the sets containing only three pieces as it is much more difficult to complete these larger sets. Each player is dealt six cards and given a starting 'fund' of $2,000. The top 'property' card is revealed and a bidding ensues. The winner pays the bank and takes the card into his hand. The player then has the option of selling 1 - 3 properties to the bank. The idea here is to rid yourself of properties that you do not wish to collect and provide a source of income. There is danger, however. The sales price is determined randomly via the roll of two dice. The price can vary from 25% - 100% of the listed worth of the item. Further, if a '0' is rolled on one of the dice, then the item is NOT sold outright, but rather an auction takes place amongst the players. This can result in a substantially reduced price to the seller, or a higher price, depending upon the demand for the item. Further, it is quite possible that no one desires the item, so the seller must take the item back into his hand. There is also the possibility that the player will earn a $200 bonus if the proper digit is rolled on one of the dice. When a property is sold, it is placed on the appropriate section of the 'board' - 25%, 50%, 75%, or 100% (there really isn't a board, just a card holder that indicates these sections). After a player sells properties, he may surrender one of the special 'buyer' cards and purchase from 1 - 3 cards from one of these markets. The player must pay the indicated price (based on the particular percentage market where the property is located) and take the property into his hand. Again, there is a decision to be made here. Buyer cards are very valuable, as they can be used in a number of fashions: 1) Purchase properties, as described above; 2) Used as a 'wild' card to complete a set; or 3) Valued as $500.00 at the end of the game. So, a player has to weigh the advantages of each of these options and play accordingly. Buyer cards are purchases at auction in conjunction with a property card. When a Buyer card is revealed, another card is then revealed, and both cards are then auctioned together. The auction is a 'sealed' auction, however, so the stakes are often high as these cards carry tremendous advantages. The game continues in this fashion until the property deck expires or a player calls an end to the game. One can only do this, however, if he has a total value (property sets plus cash) in excess of $5,000. Even then, a player should only do this when he feels he has more assets than any of his opponents.

105 / 1791 sold
Board Game in nice condition. *** Players represent collectors attempting to gather sets of valuable properties and artifacts ... coins, antiques, miniatures, etc. These sets are worth handsome sums at game's end. Individual pieces of a set are worthless at game's end, but are able to be sold during the course of the game in order to provide a cash-flow. These 'properties' are represented on cards. There are 12 different types of properties, varying from 3 - 6 pieces per set. Naturally, the sets containing six pieces are much more valuable than the sets containing only three pieces as it is much more difficult to complete these larger sets. Each player is dealt six cards and given a starting 'fund' of $2,000. The top 'property' card is revealed and a bidding ensues. The winner pays the bank and takes the card into his hand. The player then has the option of selling 1 - 3 properties to the bank. The idea here is to rid yourself of properties that you do not wish to collect and provide a source of income. There is danger, however. The sales price is determined randomly via the roll of two dice. The price can vary from 25% - 100% of the listed worth of the item. Further, if a '0' is rolled on one of the dice, then the item is NOT sold outright, but rather an auction takes place amongst the players. This can result in a substantially reduced price to the seller, or a higher price, depending upon the demand for the item. Further, it is quite possible that no one desires the item, so the seller must take the item back into his hand. There is also the possibility that the player will earn a $200 bonus if the proper digit is rolled on one of the dice. When a property is sold, it is placed on the appropriate section of the 'board' - 25%, 50%, 75%, or 100% (there really isn't a board, just a card holder that indicates these sections). After a player sells properties, he may surrender one of the special 'buyer' cards and purchase from 1 - 3 cards from one of these markets. The player must pay the indicated price (based on the particular percentage market where the property is located) and take the property into his hand. Again, there is a decision to be made here. Buyer cards are very valuable, as they can be used in a number of fashions: 1) Purchase properties, as described above; 2) Used as a 'wild' card to complete a set; or 3) Valued as $500.00 at the end of the game. So, a player has to weigh the advantages of each of these options and play accordingly. Buyer cards are purchases at auction in conjunction with a property card. When a Buyer card is revealed, another card is then revealed, and both cards are then auctioned together. The auction is a 'sealed' auction, however, so the stakes are often high as these cards carry tremendous advantages. The game continues in this fashion until the property deck expires or a player calls an end to the game. One can only do this, however, if he has a total value (property sets plus cash) in excess of $5,000. Even then, a player should only do this when he feels he has more assets than any of his opponents.

106 / 1791 sold
Nice condition Card Game. ***Card game in which players purchase companies using sets that have various monetary denominations (the resource cards). Turning in a set with matching symbols is worth more than the face value of the cards, so set collecting becomes a key strategy. Purchased companies (the corporation cards) are placed in front of the player according to a matching letter system. The top company of each stack is vulnerable to proxy take-overs by other players, so they usually attempt to order their holdings such that the most valuable ones are covered by less valuable companies. Scoring occurs whenever a player draws a profit card from the deck. The game ends when the corporation deck is exhausted.

107 / 1791 sold
Nice condition Card Game. ***Card game in which players purchase companies using sets that have various monetary denominations (the resource cards). Turning in a set with matching symbols is worth more than the face value of the cards, so set collecting becomes a key strategy. Purchased companies (the corporation cards) are placed in front of the player according to a matching letter system. The top company of each stack is vulnerable to proxy take-overs by other players, so they usually attempt to order their holdings such that the most valuable ones are covered by less valuable companies. Scoring occurs whenever a player draws a profit card from the deck. The game ends when the corporation deck is exhausted.

108 / 1791 sold
Nice condition Card Game. ***Card game in which players purchase companies using sets that have various monetary denominations (the resource cards). Turning in a set with matching symbols is worth more than the face value of the cards, so set collecting becomes a key strategy. Purchased companies (the corporation cards) are placed in front of the player according to a matching letter system. The top company of each stack is vulnerable to proxy take-overs by other players, so they usually attempt to order their holdings such that the most valuable ones are covered by less valuable companies. Scoring occurs whenever a player draws a profit card from the deck. The game ends when the corporation deck is exhausted.

109 / 1791 sold
Nice condition Card Game. ***Card game in which players purchase companies using sets that have various monetary denominations (the resource cards). Turning in a set with matching symbols is worth more than the face value of the cards, so set collecting becomes a key strategy. Purchased companies (the corporation cards) are placed in front of the player according to a matching letter system. The top company of each stack is vulnerable to proxy take-overs by other players, so they usually attempt to order their holdings such that the most valuable ones are covered by less valuable companies. Scoring occurs whenever a player draws a profit card from the deck. The game ends when the corporation deck is exhausted.

110 / 1791 sold
Nice condition Card Game. ***Card game in which players purchase companies using sets that have various monetary denominations (the resource cards). Turning in a set with matching symbols is worth more than the face value of the cards, so set collecting becomes a key strategy. Purchased companies (the corporation cards) are placed in front of the player according to a matching letter system. The top company of each stack is vulnerable to proxy take-overs by other players, so they usually attempt to order their holdings such that the most valuable ones are covered by less valuable companies. Scoring occurs whenever a player draws a profit card from the deck. The game ends when the corporation deck is exhausted.

111 / 1791 sold
Card Game in nice condition. ****Evade is an old (1971) 3M game, part of their series of 'Gamettes', games which were released in very small, fold-over bookcase type boxes. There were 9 games in this series, which were released near the end of the 3M venture into the gaming market. The game is extremely simple, yet requires quite a bit of 'bluffing' in order to win. Each player begins with six metal pawns along the back row of a 6x6 grid. The board fits snuggly into the box itself and is quite sturdy. The game is, as is the entire Gamette series, ideal for bringing along while traveling. Each player secretly places a teeny magnet under two of his pawns. The object is to be the first player to maneuver one of these 'magnet-bearing' pawns to the opposite side of the board. If you manage to accomplish this feat, you win. Movement is simple. You simply move one of your pawns one space to an adjacent space ... vertically, horizontally or diagonally. If this lands you atop an opponent's pawn, you are both 'frozen' and can no longer move. If you make the mistake of moving one of your 'magnet' pawns onto an opponent, he instantly wins. "Well", you say, "Why wouldn't I just check the pawn to make sure it wasn't carrying a magnet before making such a questionable move?". The rules allow for this, but if you do check, you are prohibited from 'freezing' an opponent that round. So, it's best to remember which two of your pawns are carrying magnets. As mentioned, the game ends as soon as one player manages to get a magnet-bearing pawn to the opposite side of the board. If both players fail to accomplish this, the game is a draw. The game is very simple and the primary tactic is 'bluff'. Are you going to be bold and move one of your 'magnet' pawns to the front, figuring your opponent will guess that this cannot possibly be your magnet pawn as he could freeze it too easily? Or, do you protect your magnet pawns and try to create a path that it can squeeze by your opponent's pawns and scoot to the opposite side? As with most bluff-style games, there's some guesswork and plain old luck involved, but there is still enough maneuvering and tactics to keep it interesting.

112 / 1791 sold
Card Game in nice condition. ****Evade is an old (1971) 3M game, part of their series of 'Gamettes', games which were released in very small, fold-over bookcase type boxes. There were 9 games in this series, which were released near the end of the 3M venture into the gaming market. The game is extremely simple, yet requires quite a bit of 'bluffing' in order to win. Each player begins with six metal pawns along the back row of a 6x6 grid. The board fits snuggly into the box itself and is quite sturdy. The game is, as is the entire Gamette series, ideal for bringing along while traveling. Each player secretly places a teeny magnet under two of his pawns. The object is to be the first player to maneuver one of these 'magnet-bearing' pawns to the opposite side of the board. If you manage to accomplish this feat, you win. Movement is simple. You simply move one of your pawns one space to an adjacent space ... vertically, horizontally or diagonally. If this lands you atop an opponent's pawn, you are both 'frozen' and can no longer move. If you make the mistake of moving one of your 'magnet' pawns onto an opponent, he instantly wins. "Well", you say, "Why wouldn't I just check the pawn to make sure it wasn't carrying a magnet before making such a questionable move?". The rules allow for this, but if you do check, you are prohibited from 'freezing' an opponent that round. So, it's best to remember which two of your pawns are carrying magnets. As mentioned, the game ends as soon as one player manages to get a magnet-bearing pawn to the opposite side of the board. If both players fail to accomplish this, the game is a draw. The game is very simple and the primary tactic is 'bluff'. Are you going to be bold and move one of your 'magnet' pawns to the front, figuring your opponent will guess that this cannot possibly be your magnet pawn as he could freeze it too easily? Or, do you protect your magnet pawns and try to create a path that it can squeeze by your opponent's pawns and scoot to the opposite side? As with most bluff-style games, there's some guesswork and plain old luck involved, but there is still enough maneuvering and tactics to keep it interesting.

113 / 1791 sold
Card Game in nice condition. ****Evade is an old (1971) 3M game, part of their series of 'Gamettes', games which were released in very small, fold-over bookcase type boxes. There were 9 games in this series, which were released near the end of the 3M venture into the gaming market. The game is extremely simple, yet requires quite a bit of 'bluffing' in order to win. Each player begins with six metal pawns along the back row of a 6x6 grid. The board fits snuggly into the box itself and is quite sturdy. The game is, as is the entire Gamette series, ideal for bringing along while traveling. Each player secretly places a teeny magnet under two of his pawns. The object is to be the first player to maneuver one of these 'magnet-bearing' pawns to the opposite side of the board. If you manage to accomplish this feat, you win. Movement is simple. You simply move one of your pawns one space to an adjacent space ... vertically, horizontally or diagonally. If this lands you atop an opponent's pawn, you are both 'frozen' and can no longer move. If you make the mistake of moving one of your 'magnet' pawns onto an opponent, he instantly wins. "Well", you say, "Why wouldn't I just check the pawn to make sure it wasn't carrying a magnet before making such a questionable move?". The rules allow for this, but if you do check, you are prohibited from 'freezing' an opponent that round. So, it's best to remember which two of your pawns are carrying magnets. As mentioned, the game ends as soon as one player manages to get a magnet-bearing pawn to the opposite side of the board. If both players fail to accomplish this, the game is a draw. The game is very simple and the primary tactic is 'bluff'. Are you going to be bold and move one of your 'magnet' pawns to the front, figuring your opponent will guess that this cannot possibly be your magnet pawn as he could freeze it too easily? Or, do you protect your magnet pawns and try to create a path that it can squeeze by your opponent's pawns and scoot to the opposite side? As with most bluff-style games, there's some guesswork and plain old luck involved, but there is still enough maneuvering and tactics to keep it interesting.

114 / 1791 sold
Card Game in nice condition. ****Evade is an old (1971) 3M game, part of their series of 'Gamettes', games which were released in very small, fold-over bookcase type boxes. There were 9 games in this series, which were released near the end of the 3M venture into the gaming market. The game is extremely simple, yet requires quite a bit of 'bluffing' in order to win. Each player begins with six metal pawns along the back row of a 6x6 grid. The board fits snuggly into the box itself and is quite sturdy. The game is, as is the entire Gamette series, ideal for bringing along while traveling. Each player secretly places a teeny magnet under two of his pawns. The object is to be the first player to maneuver one of these 'magnet-bearing' pawns to the opposite side of the board. If you manage to accomplish this feat, you win. Movement is simple. You simply move one of your pawns one space to an adjacent space ... vertically, horizontally or diagonally. If this lands you atop an opponent's pawn, you are both 'frozen' and can no longer move. If you make the mistake of moving one of your 'magnet' pawns onto an opponent, he instantly wins. "Well", you say, "Why wouldn't I just check the pawn to make sure it wasn't carrying a magnet before making such a questionable move?". The rules allow for this, but if you do check, you are prohibited from 'freezing' an opponent that round. So, it's best to remember which two of your pawns are carrying magnets. As mentioned, the game ends as soon as one player manages to get a magnet-bearing pawn to the opposite side of the board. If both players fail to accomplish this, the game is a draw. The game is very simple and the primary tactic is 'bluff'. Are you going to be bold and move one of your 'magnet' pawns to the front, figuring your opponent will guess that this cannot possibly be your magnet pawn as he could freeze it too easily? Or, do you protect your magnet pawns and try to create a path that it can squeeze by your opponent's pawns and scoot to the opposite side? As with most bluff-style games, there's some guesswork and plain old luck involved, but there is still enough maneuvering and tactics to keep it interesting.

115 / 1791 sold
Card Game in nice condition. ****Evade is an old (1971) 3M game, part of their series of 'Gamettes', games which were released in very small, fold-over bookcase type boxes. There were 9 games in this series, which were released near the end of the 3M venture into the gaming market. The game is extremely simple, yet requires quite a bit of 'bluffing' in order to win. Each player begins with six metal pawns along the back row of a 6x6 grid. The board fits snuggly into the box itself and is quite sturdy. The game is, as is the entire Gamette series, ideal for bringing along while traveling. Each player secretly places a teeny magnet under two of his pawns. The object is to be the first player to maneuver one of these 'magnet-bearing' pawns to the opposite side of the board. If you manage to accomplish this feat, you win. Movement is simple. You simply move one of your pawns one space to an adjacent space ... vertically, horizontally or diagonally. If this lands you atop an opponent's pawn, you are both 'frozen' and can no longer move. If you make the mistake of moving one of your 'magnet' pawns onto an opponent, he instantly wins. "Well", you say, "Why wouldn't I just check the pawn to make sure it wasn't carrying a magnet before making such a questionable move?". The rules allow for this, but if you do check, you are prohibited from 'freezing' an opponent that round. So, it's best to remember which two of your pawns are carrying magnets. As mentioned, the game ends as soon as one player manages to get a magnet-bearing pawn to the opposite side of the board. If both players fail to accomplish this, the game is a draw. The game is very simple and the primary tactic is 'bluff'. Are you going to be bold and move one of your 'magnet' pawns to the front, figuring your opponent will guess that this cannot possibly be your magnet pawn as he could freeze it too easily? Or, do you protect your magnet pawns and try to create a path that it can squeeze by your opponent's pawns and scoot to the opposite side? As with most bluff-style games, there's some guesswork and plain old luck involved, but there is still enough maneuvering and tactics to keep it interesting.

116 / 1791 sold
Card Game in nice condition. ****Evade is an old (1971) 3M game, part of their series of 'Gamettes', games which were released in very small, fold-over bookcase type boxes. There were 9 games in this series, which were released near the end of the 3M venture into the gaming market. The game is extremely simple, yet requires quite a bit of 'bluffing' in order to win. Each player begins with six metal pawns along the back row of a 6x6 grid. The board fits snuggly into the box itself and is quite sturdy. The game is, as is the entire Gamette series, ideal for bringing along while traveling. Each player secretly places a teeny magnet under two of his pawns. The object is to be the first player to maneuver one of these 'magnet-bearing' pawns to the opposite side of the board. If you manage to accomplish this feat, you win. Movement is simple. You simply move one of your pawns one space to an adjacent space ... vertically, horizontally or diagonally. If this lands you atop an opponent's pawn, you are both 'frozen' and can no longer move. If you make the mistake of moving one of your 'magnet' pawns onto an opponent, he instantly wins. "Well", you say, "Why wouldn't I just check the pawn to make sure it wasn't carrying a magnet before making such a questionable move?". The rules allow for this, but if you do check, you are prohibited from 'freezing' an opponent that round. So, it's best to remember which two of your pawns are carrying magnets. As mentioned, the game ends as soon as one player manages to get a magnet-bearing pawn to the opposite side of the board. If both players fail to accomplish this, the game is a draw. The game is very simple and the primary tactic is 'bluff'. Are you going to be bold and move one of your 'magnet' pawns to the front, figuring your opponent will guess that this cannot possibly be your magnet pawn as he could freeze it too easily? Or, do you protect your magnet pawns and try to create a path that it can squeeze by your opponent's pawns and scoot to the opposite side? As with most bluff-style games, there's some guesswork and plain old luck involved, but there is still enough maneuvering and tactics to keep it interesting.

117 / 1791 sold
New in the box.

118 / 1791
New in the box.

119 / 1791
New in the box.

120 / 1791
New in the box.

121 / 1791
New in the box.

122 / 1791
New in the box.

123 / 1791
New in the box.

124 / 1791
Produced by the Walt Disney Company in 1990, this Dick Tracy Breathless Mahoney Doll is still in the original box and never been played with. Collectors Doll.

125 / 1791 sold
Produced by the Walt Disney Company in 1990, this Dick Tracy Breathless Mahoney Doll is still in the original box and never been played with. Collectors Doll.

126 / 1791 sold
Produced by the Walt Disney Company in 1990, this Dick Tracy Breathless Mahoney Doll is still in the original box and never been played with. Collectors Doll.

127 / 1791 sold
Produced by the Walt Disney Company in 1990, this Dick Tracy Breathless Mahoney Doll is still in the original box and never been played with. Collectors Doll.

128 / 1791 sold
Produced by the Walt Disney Company in 1990, this Dick Tracy Breathless Mahoney Doll is still in the original box and never been played with. Collectors Doll.

129 / 1791 sold
Produced by the Walt Disney Company in 1990, this Dick Tracy Breathless Mahoney Doll is still in the original box and never been played with. Collectors Doll.

130 / 1791 sold
Produced by the Walt Disney Company in 1990, this Dick Tracy Breathless Mahoney Doll is still in the original box and never been played with. Collectors Doll.

131 / 1791 sold
Produced by the Walt Disney Company in 1990, this Dick Tracy Breathless Mahoney Doll is still in the original box and never been played with. Collectors Doll.

132 / 1791 sold
Produced by the Walt Disney Company in 1990, this Dick Tracy Breathless Mahoney Doll is still in the original box and never been played with. Collectors Doll.

133 / 1791 sold
Still New in the box. Collector's Barbie. Box has some damage to the front.

134 / 1791 sold
Still New in the box. Collector's Barbie. Box has some damage to the front.

135 / 1791 sold
Still New in the box. Collector's Barbie. Box has some damage to the front.

136 / 1791 sold
Still New in the box. Collector's Barbie. Box has some damage to the front.

137 / 1791 sold
Still New in the box. Collector's Barbie. Box has some damage to the front.

138 / 1791 sold
Still New in the box. Collector's Barbie. Box has some damage to the front.

139 / 1791 sold
1996 Collector's Holiday Barbie. New in the box from a Collector's Collection.

140 / 1791 sold
1996 Collector's Holiday Barbie. New in the box from a Collector's Collection.

141 / 1791 sold
1996 Collector's Holiday Barbie. New in the box from a Collector's Collection.

142 / 1791 sold
1996 Collector's Holiday Barbie. New in the box from a Collector's Collection.

143 / 1791 sold
1996 Collector's Holiday Barbie. New in the box from a Collector's Collection.

144 / 1791 sold
1996 Collector's Holiday Barbie. New in the box from a Collector's Collection.

145 / 1791 sold
1996 Collector's Holiday Barbie. New in the box from a Collector's Collection.

146 / 1791 sold
New in the box from a Collector's Collection. 1994 Holiday Barbie.

147 / 1791 sold
New in the box from a Collector's Collection. 1994 Holiday Barbie.

148 / 1791 sold
New in the box from a Collector's Collection. 1994 Holiday Barbie.

149 / 1791 sold
New in the box from a Collector's Collection. 1994 Holiday Barbie.

150 / 1791 sold
New in the box from a Collector's Collection. 1994 Holiday Barbie.

151 / 1791 sold
Geniveve Sari Cabbage Patch Doll from 1984 still new in the box. From a Collector's Collection.

152 / 1791 sold
Geniveve Sari Cabbage Patch Doll from 1984 still new in the box. From a Collector's Collection.

153 / 1791 sold
Geniveve Sari Cabbage Patch Doll from 1984 still new in the box. From a Collector's Collection.

154 / 1791 sold
Geniveve Sari Cabbage Patch Doll from 1984 still new in the box. From a Collector's Collection.

155 / 1791 sold
Geniveve Sari Cabbage Patch Doll from 1984 still new in the box. From a Collector's Collection.

156 / 1791 sold
Geniveve Sari Cabbage Patch Doll from 1984 still new in the box. From a Collector's Collection.

157 / 1791 sold
1994 Bandai Auto Morphin Power Rangers Zach Black Ranger With Tattoo Brand new Sealed

158 / 1791 sold
1994 Bandai Auto Morphin Power Rangers Zach Black Ranger With Tattoo Brand new Sealed

159 / 1791 sold
1994 Bandai Auto Morphin Power Rangers Zach Black Ranger With Tattoo Brand new Sealed

160 / 1791 sold
1994 Bandai Auto Morphin Power Rangers Zach Black Ranger With Tattoo Brand new Sealed

161 / 1791 sold
1994 Bandai Auto Morphin Power Rangers Zach Black Ranger With Tattoo Brand new Sealed

162 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Yellow Ranger Trini with Tattoo Included

163 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Yellow Ranger Trini with Tattoo Included

164 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Yellow Ranger Trini with Tattoo Included

165 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Yellow Ranger Trini with Tattoo Included

166 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Yellow Ranger Trini with Tattoo Included

167 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Yellow Ranger Trini with Tattoo Included

168 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Yellow Ranger Trini with Tattoo Included

169 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Pink Ranger Kimberly with Tattoo Included

170 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Pink Ranger Kimberly with Tattoo Included

171 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Pink Ranger Kimberly with Tattoo Included

172 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Pink Ranger Kimberly with Tattoo Included

173 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Pink Ranger Kimberly with Tattoo Included

174 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Pink Ranger Kimberly with Tattoo Included

175 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Green Ranger Tommy with Tattoo Included

176 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Green Ranger Tommy with Tattoo Included

177 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Green Ranger Tommy with Tattoo Included

178 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Green Ranger Tommy with Tattoo Included

179 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Green Ranger Tommy with Tattoo Included

180 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Green Ranger Tommy with Tattoo Included

181 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Green Ranger Tommy with Tattoo Included

182 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Green Ranger Tommy with Tattoo Included

183 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Blue Ranger Billy with Tattoo Included

184 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Blue Ranger Billy with Tattoo Included

185 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Blue Ranger Billy with Tattoo Included

186 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Blue Ranger Billy with Tattoo Included

187 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Blue Ranger Billy with Tattoo Included

188 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Blue Ranger Billy with Tattoo Included

189 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Blue Ranger Billy with Tattoo Included

190 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Blue Ranger Billy with Tattoo Included

191 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Blue Ranger Billy with Tattoo Included

192 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Blue Ranger Billy with Tattoo Included

193 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Red Ranger Jason with Tattoo Included

194 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Red Ranger Jason with Tattoo Included

195 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Red Ranger Jason with Tattoo Included

196 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Red Ranger Jason with Tattoo Included

197 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Red Ranger Jason with Tattoo Included

198 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Red Ranger Jason with Tattoo Included

199 / 1791 sold
1994 BANDAI Mighty Morphin Power Rangers Auto Morphin Red Ranger Jason with Tattoo Included

200 / 1791 sold

Photos 101 - 200 of 1791

Per page:

Prev Page Next Page

Return to Sale Details

Follow Ms. Museum Estate Services

Craigslist Code

Please note that Craigslist has stopped allowing external images as well as most html tags in their "for sale" listings. Your template will still have a full link to your sale and your sale photo gallery.

Preview your Craigslist template

Go to Craigslist and find your city.
Under For Sale, click on the Garage Sale category.
Click on the Post link in the upper right corner of the page.
Choose the Garage Sale category and then select your area. Craigslist doesn't have an Estate Sale category and this is the closest match.
Add the title of your sale and the location.
Add your email address and keep it anonymous to prevent spam.
Copy & Paste the html code below into the Posting Description text box.
Click Continue to add photos and publish your sale. You will receive a confirmation email from Craigslist to verify the sale. Activate your sale by clicking the link in your email and your done!
Craigslist allows you to re-post your ad every 48 hours. Re-post any sooner and your ad may be subject to removal.

EstateSales.org

EstateSales.org on Facebook EstateSales.org on X EstateSales.org on Instagram EstateSales.org on Pinterest Contact EstateSales.org

EstateSales.org is a leading website for advertising estate sales & hosting online estate auctions in the United States, with over 1,000,000 registered members and estate sales from over 4,000 estate sale companies and auctioneers. Our nationwide directory of estate sale companies helps people find estate liquidators near their area.

What Is an Estate Sale?
Advertise an Estate Sale
Estate Sale Companies
Estate Sale Blog
Estate Sale Company Blog
Found It On EstateSales.org

About
Sign In
Register
Newsletter Signup
Contact
Help

© 2009-Present EstateSales.org, All rights reserved.

Terms & Conditions Privacy Policy DMCA & Copyright Policy Contact Help

Create an account

Tell us what you'd like to do:

BuyBrowse, shop, and bid on items SellAdvertise your estate sale or auction company

Have an existing account? Sign In

Get estate sales near you sent to your inbox.

No ThanksRemind me later